Tuesday, February 21, 2023

The Left Bank

 


The Left Bank
 
This page is for posts about the left side of the Colorado River in Grand Canyon National Park. 

At the Lees Ferry launch ramp, where you to step ashore on river left (across the river from the put-in ramp), you are on Navajo Nation tribal land. The National Park Service at Grand Canyon National Park owns and is responsible to manage the river surface. Step out of the water onto dry shore and you have changed jurisdictional boundaries. 

This is the case all the way to the Little Colorado River confluence with the main stem of the Colorado River. Downstream of that point, Grand Canyon National Park is is responsible to manage the river surface and the land on river left.

 This is the case all the way to River Mile 165.1 Left  (just downriver from Tuckup Canyon). Downstream of  that point, you are on Hualapai Nation tribal land. The National Park Service at Grand Canyon National Park owns and is responsible to manage the river surface. Step out of the water onto dry shore and you have changed jurisdictional boundaries. 

This is the case all the way to River Mile 273.9 Left. Downstream of that point, Grand Canyon National Park is is responsible to manage the river surface and the land on river left all the way to River Mile 277.5 where you exit Grand Canyon National Park and enter Lake Mead National Recreation Area.

2021.07.28   National Park Jurisdiction Along the Hualapai Reservation

2018.12.24  History and Policy for the Left Bank

 For additional information, see Jeff Ingram's Blog GCFutures Celebrating The Grand Canyon which goes through the Park's boundaries in complete detail.

 

Thursday, February 16, 2023

Photo Rematches

 Grand Canyon Photo Rematches

The Grand Canyon allows a lot of opportunities for photo rematching. Most of my rematches are along the Colorado River in the Park. 

This is a great opportunity to see changes over time but comes with many challenges. One is rematching the original photo by date and time-of-day. That is very hard without special approval from Grand Canyon National Park to launch a river trip specifically for photo rematching to align with a historic river trip. Most of the rematches here are way off is this regards. 

Here are some of my rematches by River Mile.

A Photo Rematch of the 1889 Stanton Dinner at Lees Ferry

A Photo Rematch of the 1958 Marston cruise at 24.5 Mile

 Here's a YouTube video  with 14 photo rematches conducted in December 2024 and January 2025 on the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon.

 

   

A River History Calendar

 

Otis "Dock" Marston works on his river log as Richard "Tick" Segerblom watches, August 11, 1963. Photo courtesy the Segerblom family. 

River History Calendar

This River History Calendar Page is in response to a self imposed challenge to see if I can find a Colorado River Running fact for every day of the year. The primary source material I used all came from Otis "Dock" Marston's vast collection of correspondence and trip logs found in the Otis Reed Marston Collection at The Huntington Library, San Marino, CA. 

January    February    March    April    May    June

July  August  September  October  November  December 

 If you like this sort of stuff you might enjoy reading the following books:

From Powell To Power by Otis Reed Marston. This book recounts the travels and travails of the first 100 people Marston documented traveling through the Grand Canyon. 

Dock Marston: Grand Canyon's Colorado River Running Historian Volume 1 by Tom Martin. 

This book is available in a 4 part series on Amazon Kindle if you search for Dock Marston: The Colorado River Historian Volume 1.

Wednesday, February 1, 2023

February Colorado River History Dates

 

Bypass tunnels under construction at the Boulder (Hoover) Dam construction site, February 1, 1932. Photo courtesy Bureau of Reclamation collection.

February Colorado River History Dates

February 1, 1932 – The two diversion tunnels are under construction at the Boulder (Hoover) Dam construction site.

February 2, 1935 – Frank Dodge writes Dr. Ian Campbell that Sturdevant and Johnson’s drownings in Horn Creek “was just another unnecessary calamity” and that “the Park Super tried to put through a ruling to prohibit any future boat voyages in “His” canyon.”

February 3, 1897 – Nathaniel Galloway and William Richmond reach the Virgin River confluence with the Colorado River after boating through the Grand Canyon.

February 4, 1890 – Robert Stanton called camp on a beach with lots of driftwood near 84 Mile on the Colorado River in Grand Canyon.

February 5, 1952 – Otis “Dock” Marston writes to river runner Jim Rigg that “David Rust wisely remarked “It is easier to tell a good story than it is to seek the truth.”

February 6, 1890 – The Stanton Expedition destroys one of their boats, the Marie, while lining the craft at Horn Creek Rapid.

February 7, 1959 – River runner Gaylord Staveley writes to Dock Marston about “the verbal whacks I have heard Georgie White take at everything regarding my equipment and technique.” He also writes of planning to uprun the Grand Canyon using a motorized canoe.

February 8,  1959 – The Colorado River begins to flow into the west diversion tunnel at Glen Canyon damsite. Throughout the night under the glare of huge lights, dirt and the occasional rock are moved into the river on either side of the upper diversion dam.

February 9, 1959 – After days of pushing mostly dirt into the Colorado River, the upstream cofferdam blocks the river entirely at Glen Canyon Damsite.

February 10, 1890 – Harry McDonald quits the Stanton Expedition in disgust and starts hiking up the Crystal drainage in Grand Canyon. The snow on the Kaibab is three feet deep and he reaches the cow camp in House Rock Valley crawling on his hands and knees.

February 11, 1929 – Jim Brooks, Glen Sturdevant, and Fred Johnson hike to Phantom Ranch at the start of a boating expedition to Trinity Creek and back.

February 12, 1945 – Will Richmond passes away in Yakima, Washington. He and Nat Galloway rowed two boats from above Lodore Canyon to Needles, California, in the winter of 1896-1897.

February 13, 1878 – Claude H. Birdseye, Chief Topographic Engineer for the United States Geological Survey, is born.

February 14, 1960 – Otis “Dock” Marston looks for a home for the Norm Nevills Papers, either at The Huntington Library or The Utah State Historical Society. They ended up at University of Utah’s Marriott Library Special Collections.

February 15, 1881 – Emery Clifford Kolb is born in Wilkinsburg, Pennsylvania.

February 16, 1914 – Cass Hite dies “about” this day in Ticaboo Canyon deep within upper Glen Canyon.

February 17, 1890 – The Stanton Expedition reaches Shinumo Creek though Stanton thought they had arrived at Tapeats Creek.

February 18, 1927 – The Arizona Daily Star reports that engineer Minor Tillotson has been named Superintendent of Grand Canyon National Park.

February 19, 1929 – Brooks, Sturdevant, and Johnson camp at 91 Mile and their campfire is seen from the South Rim. The men were working their way back upriver with their canvas canoe, having spent some days exploring Trinity Creek.

February 20, 1929 – Brooks, Sturdevant, and Johnson portage their 11-foot-long canoe past Horn Creek Rapid. The river is at 5,710 cfs and the rapid has a sharp drop. Putting the frail boat in the water above the rapid intending to continue upriver, Sturdevant pops an oar and the craft floats back into the rapid. Brooks is the only survivor.

February 21, 1953 – Dock Marston writes Grand Canyon Superintendent Harold Bryant that continued research on “the adequacy of preparation in parties anticipating a Canyon traverse by water” had led Marston to the conclusion that adequate planning and equipment were the key to a successful cruise, not prior experience.

February 22, 1948 – Harry Aleson writes Dock Marston that Harry now owns a fleet of three 10-man rubber boats named May I, May U, and May OUI.

February 23, 1922 – 76-year-old Robert Brewster Stanton dies of pneumonia in New Canaan, Connecticut.

February 24, 1958 – Walt Disney writes Dock Marston that he remained hopeful they could “get together sometime later on when the Grand Canyon plans become a little more complete.” The Disney film Ten Who Dared will be filmed in Grand Canyon the next year.

February 25, 1890 – The Robert Stanton Expedition hears a roar from downriver as they approach Sinyella Canyon. They walk along the shore and find waves twelve to fifteen feet in height rise at their feet and roll downstream, while breaking upstream with a terrible noise. The men had no choice but to walk back to their waiting crafts and carry on. The boats were like “little chips tossed from one side to the other, turned round and round and fearfully unmanageable.”

February 26, 1944 – In an uprun attempt of Grand Canyon, five men led by Harry Aleson make it to Granite Spring Rapid at 221 Mile. While attempting the uprun, Harry drives the boat onto a rock, removing the lower end of the boat’s outboard motor in the process.

February 27, 1953 – Dock Marston, Frank “Fisheyes” Masland, and George Babbitt Jr all lobby newly minted Senator Barry Goldwater to replace the wooden shack that served as Grand Canyon National Park’s Museum Collection with a real building. The result was a brand new Visitors Center and Headquarters that opened in June, 1957.

February 28, 1955 – 68-year-old Southwest Regional Director Minor R. Tillotson passes away in Santa Fe, New Mexico. From 1929 until his death, Tillotson refused to let Grand Canyon National Park staff boat on the Colorado River. Five months after Tillotson’s passing, Grand Canyon National Park Ranger Dan Davis joins a Georgie White river trip in Grand Canyon.

Ps... Yes, this post is a challenge to see if I can find a Colorado River Basin fact for every day of January... Done! If you like this sort of stuff you might enjoy reading Dock Marston: Grand Canyon’s Colorado River Running Historian Volume 1 available at Vishnu Temple Press. The four-part Kindle version of the same book is available here.

Wednesday, March 23, 2022

Historic Boats

Grand Canyon's Historic Boats at the South Rim

 Grand Canyon National Park's Historic Boats

 Grand Canyon National Park has a number of Historic Boats in its Museum Collection. Flagstaff videographer Greg Hales and I put together a series of sixteen videos on these boats. You can see the first video introduction here: Vimeo      YouTube

The second video in the series is on the boats used by John Wesley Powell in 1869 and 1871. While only a 3-foot diameter fragment remains of one of the 1871 boats, there are well made replicas of those boats at the Tusayan Imax.           Vimeo     YouTube

The third video in this series is on the 1909 boat used by Julius Stone to boat from Green River, WY, to Needles, California, in 1909. It is the oldest complete boat in the collection.
Vimeo     YouTube

The fourth video explores the boats used by the Kolb brothers to boat through Grand Canyon in 1911-12, the Edith and Defiance.     Vimeo:   YouTube

In the fifth video I look at one of David Rust's canvas canoes that were used to guide tourists in Glen canyon in the 1920s. Two Park Rangers using a canvas canoe like Rust's drowned in Horn Creek Rapid in 1929. This is their story.    Vimeo    YouTube

The sixth video looks at the Marble, a boat used to help map the river in Grand Canyon in 1923.           Vimeo      YouTube

In the seventh video, I focus on the WEN, made by Don Harris and Norm Nevills in 1938. The WEN is a Catract boat, also called a sadiron.   Vimeo    YouTube

The eighth video focuses on Alexander "Z" Grant's run through Grand Canyon in 1942 in a foldboat kayak.    Vimeo     YouTube

In the nineth video I recount the 1948, '49 and '50 exploits of the Esmeralda II, the first motorboat on record to traverse the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon.  Vimeo    YouTube

For the tenth video I recount the exploits of Stephen Moulton Babcock Fulmer, known to his friends as "Moulty." He built the GEM in the early 1950s, Grand Canyon’s first documented McKenzie River Dory.   Vimeo     YouTube

For the eleventh video, we look at a ten-man raft named the GEORGIE after Georgie White, the Woman of the River. This may be the raft Georgie rowed through Grand Canyon in 1952.                               Vimeo     YouTube

The twelfth video covers the 1960 Buehler Turbocraft jetboat uprun of the Colorado River in 1960. (See Errata for a correction about this video)   Vimeo     YouTube

In the thirteenth video we cover Walter Kirschbaum. With the help of his wife Ruth, they made this kayak in the late 1950s. A week after the jet boats headed downriver, Walter paddled this boat through Grand Canyon. He completed his run just before the jet boat uprun of the river began. Both were firsts.       Vimeo     YouTube

The fourteenth video explores this modified McKenzie River dory that first ran Grand Canyon in 1962. The boat was built by Keith Steele for Plez "Pat" Reilly. After its first trip through Grand Canyon, Reilly sold her to Martin Litton.   Vimeo     YouTube

Our fifteenth video looks at the sportyak DOCK. The bypass tubes around Glen Canyon Dam were closed in January of 1963, bringing the flow of the river to a trickle. In August, a small group of folks made the first run through the now dam controlled Grand Canyon. Their boats of choice were tiny Sportyaks. Vimeo     YouTube

In our sixteenth and final video, we complete the circle and look at vert tiny and tippy boats paddled by 12-year-olds. These two boats, like almost all the other boats in the fleet, were added only years after they made their Canyon run and represent today's kayaks. Vimeo     YouTube

Remembering Art Greene's Airboat Tseh Na-ni-ah-go Atin'

 

 

 

Tuesday, January 4, 2022

Two Reviews of False Architect: The Mary Colter Hoax by Fred Shaw

 

Two Reviews of False Architect: The Mary Colter Hoax by Fred Shaw

                                      Rust Camp (today's Phantom Ranch) 1907 NPS image

The first review of Fred Shaw's book False Architect is by Haley Johnson. Haley is Past President of the Grand Canyon Historical Society. In 2021 she presented a discussion of some of the facts showing Coulter was a designer, not an architect. You can see her presentation here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHTQk82QPys

Johnson wrote the following review on the False Architect Amazon page:

Amazing how we think we know everything about a time before many of us were born yet new technology is constantly allowing us to uncover long hidden secrets. I have gone through dozens of Shaw's sources, most which are all available to the public, and I am surprised how easy it is to find what he found! Even without a direct link (which he DOES provide) it was simple to find many of the newspaper articles.

I absolutely love that ZANE GREY basically called Colter unbalanced.! Love this read, fascinating history. I for one am absolutely open to changes in History. We weren't there, we only have evidence to read. I love to learn more and dig more into what was or could have been. We are learning new things all the time thanks to advances in technology.

If what Shaw has found is actual fact nothing needs to change except it's another page in the history of Colter and these amazing buildings associated with her.

An interpretive Ranger could easily interpret Mary Colter as we have been doing for as long as any of us can remember and then at the end of the program can add in this new evidence and let the audience come to their own conclusion. it can open up discussion, it's a facilitated dialogue opportunity.

This can be a new experience and a new learning opportunity for all of us it doesn't have to mean Mary Colter is bad or that we should all hate her 🤷🏽‍♀️ whatever happened back then for Colter to have gotten in the books as she did is amazing! She's still going to be a powerful historic figure no matter what.

Fred Shaw uncovered this fascinating evidence and has recently uncovered even more, why push against it when we can all dig deeper into it and try to learn more?

You can read Johnson’s and other reviews here: https://www.amazon.com/False-Architect-Mary-Colter-Hoax-ebook/dp/B07CJRX2F5/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

 

The second review of Fred Shaw's False Architect is by Doug Sherman. Doug is a retired Professor of Earth and Environmental Sciences at the College of Lake County, Illinois. His review was originally posted September 19, 2018 at https://www.facebook.com/groups/GrandCanyonHistory. You can read more about Doug here: https://www.blurb.ca/user/Dougsherman

Review of Fred Shaw's False Architect by Doug Sherman

I am a former geology professor and a professional photographer who has spent hundreds of hours teaching field courses and photographing the Grand Canyon. Like everyone else, I thought Mary Colter was the architect of many of the buildings at the Grand Canyon. After all, that is what the literature available from the Grand Canyon Natural History Association and the National Park Service purports. So, when a friend suggested that I read this book I was more than intrigued to see what the author had to say.

As a scientist, I approach things from a skeptical point of view. I always check to see if sources are viable and if there is any bias in the evaluation of information presented or in the way it was assembled. It is apparent, based on the information presented in this book, that the previous literature describing Mary Colter as the architect of numerous buildings at the Grand Canyon and elsewhere along the Santa Fe Railroad system violated these fundamental principles. Few if any primary sources were used by authors of the previous literature and much of the information utilized in those books was provided to the writers by either people Colter had befriended, by Colter herself, from other books whose authors didn’t do proper research, or from her grossly embellished autobiography.

Fred Shaw did not set out to refute Mary Colter’s claims. He only decided to investigate her based on contradictions he discovered while doing research for a book on Louis Curtis, a prominent architect who worked for Fred Harvey and the Santa Fe Railroad during that same time.

He began by researching Mary Colter’s early history including where she lived, her educational background, and her job background. Most importantly, he discovered that she had no architectural training whatsoever. In fact, the California School of Design, which she attended for three years after high school, offered no architectural classes. Her courses there consisted of drawing and fine arts.

Although Colter claimed in her autobiography that she taught architecture courses while employed at Stout Manual Training School in Menomonie, WI and Mechanic Arts High School in St. Paul, MN, Shaw provides definitive proof that the former school did not offer architecture classes and that at the latter her duties were teaching literature and drawing classes. These lies might be considered unimportant embellishments used to impress her friends and family. However, Shaw proves this was only the beginning of a life of deceit on a grand scale.

After she was hired by Fred Harvey to be a decorator during the heyday of construction at Grand Canyon National Park and along the Santa Fe Railroad the depth of her prevarication increased. This position gave her access to the blueprints/plans for these structures and because these plans were the property of the Fred Harvey and Santa Fe architectural departments they did not contain the names of the actual architects. As a result, Mary Colter wrote her initials M. E. J. C. on many of the plans thus, claiming them as her own or she simply asserted to others that she was the architect. She didn’t expect that someone as astute in investigative techniques as Fred Shaw would eventually uncover the truth.

Shaw compared the writing of Colter on those plans with the writing on the legends of those plans and that of known architects working for the Santa Fe Railroad and Fred Harvey at those times. By doing this he discerned who the actual architects were. In addition, by reviewing the known works of these architects it was apparent that distinctive elements they had used before were incorporated into many of these buildings which Colter claimed to be her own.

Colter also blatantly usurped an idea originating with Louisa Wetherill that Navajo Sand Paintings should be used to decorate the walls of El Navajo Hotel in Gallup, NM. An article crediting Colter with the idea appeared in the New Mexico Times Tribune. None other than Zane Grey wrote a letter to the editor of that paper asking that the article be retracted and that Wetherill, who had shared her idea with Colter, be given the proper credit. Grey knew the truth because he had been friends with Wetherill for many years and had seen the correspondence between the two affirming his allegation.

Based on the information presented in this book, it is well past time to give the actual architects of the buildings along the Santa Fe Railway system and at the Grand Canyon their rightful due. Shaw proves conclusively that Colter was not the architect of any of the buildings at the Grand Canyon or along the Santa Fe Railway system.

Shaw’s exhaustive research yields the following results:

Louis S. Curtiss: El Ortiz Hotel, Lamy, NM; Phantom Ranch buildings (First Phase), Grand Canyon National Park; El Navajo Hotel, Gallup, NM; Santa Fe San Diego Station, San Diego, CA; Hermits Rest, Grand Canyon National Park; Lookout Studio, Grand Canyon National Park; Indian Gardens (proposed), Grand Canyon National Park.

Robert J. Raney: Desert View Watch Tower, Grand Canyon National Park; Bright Angel Lodge, Grand Canyon National Park; La Posada Hotel, Winslow, AZ; Auto Camp Lodge, Grand Canyon National Park; Phantom Ranch buildings (Second Phase), Grand Canyon National Park; Fred Harvey facilities at Chicago Union Station, Chicago, IL.

Charles F. Whittlesey: The Alvarado Hotel, Albuquerque, NM; Santa Fe ticket office in Los Angeles, CA; Santa Fe Depots in Bakersfield, CA, Trinidad, CO, and Raton, NM; El Tovar Hotel, Grand Canyon National Park.

W.H. Mohr: Hopi House, Grand Canyon National Park (Initial drawings by Mohr refined by Charles F. Whittlesey).

John Gaw Meem: The La Fonda Hotel Addition, Santa Fe, NM (with help from Robert Raney)

The chapter speculating why Colter made these false claims is unnecessary. The evidence gathered over a three- and one-half year period, which is contained in the end notes of the book, conclusively proves that she was not the architect of record for these buildings.

Fred Shaw should receive kudos for his tenacity and courage in completing this monumental work. Correcting the illegitimate claims of Mary Colter that have stood for six decades was not an easy task.

Doug Sherman is a retired professor of geology, nationally recognized photographer and Cottonwood, AZ, resident.